Because it's often one of the last steps in sewing a garment, hemming can sometimes be a bit of an afterthought. After all, a hem is a hem, right? In reality, there are many styles and techniques for hemming, ranging from simple ways to cover up a raw edge to polished finishes that can tie a whole project together. In this post, we'll explore six essential types of hems to know and what kinds of projects you'd use them for. Let's get started!
6 ESSENTIAL TYPES OF HEMS AND THEIR USES
1. Single Fold Hem
The single fold hem is the most basic hemming technique you'll encounter. To create this hem, the fabric edge is folded over to the wrong side of the fabric and stitched in place—easy as can be! The disadvantage to this style of hem, however, is that it leaves the raw fabric edge exposed and visible on the inside of the garment or the wrong side of other sewn objects. Because of this, single fold hems are not very commonly used, but they can be a good option for heavy materials that are difficult to fold or would become too bulky if folded more than once. If you decide to use a single fold hem on woven fabric, be sure to finish the fabric edge with a serger, zigzag stitch, or pinking shears before hemming, as the raw edge will fray if left unfinished.
2. Double Fold Hem
For most fabrics, there's an easier way to finish off a single fold hem, though: fold it one more time! That's how you get the double fold hem, a very common style of hemming, and probably one you've already used in your sewing. To create a double fold hem, the fabric edge is folded over twice, pressed, and stitched down. It's an easy, versatile hem that encloses the raw edge and is a great option for most fabric weights and a wide variety of applications.
3. Blind Hem
A more advanced technique, the blind hem, offers a sleek, elegant finish unlike any other hem style. Ideal for pants, trousers, curtains, and jacket sleeves, this hem finishes the raw fabric edge with a blind stitch, which gives the appearance of a continuous edge with no visible stitching. To achieve this finish, the fabric edge is folded in such a way that the seam allowance will be mostly concealed, and sewn with a blind stitch either by hand or sewing machine. The blind stitch only catches a few threads at a time that are visible on the outside of the garment. This makes the stitching on the right side of the garment nearly invisible without close inspection, especially when sewn with semi-translucent blind stitch thread.
4. Rolled Hem
If you're working with very fine or lightweight fabrics and want a very narrow hem, the rolled hem might be the best choice. This very narrow hem is achieved by rolling the fabric edge over itself so the raw edge is hidden. Used for lightweight and delicate fabrics like silk, the rolled hem is an excellent option for items like silk scarves, cloth napkins, doll clothes, and fine garments. It's not applicable for heavier fabrics, as the seam will quickly become bulky when used on a thick fabric. A rolled hem can be done by hand or with a sewing machine using a rolled hem presser foot.
5. Faced Hem
For a hem with a very clean finish on the inside of a garment, faced hems are the way to go. A faced hem uses a facing—any strip of fabric like bias tape, seam binding, ribbon, or another sewing tape—to cover up the raw edges and finish the wrong side of the hem. There are several different techniques for facing a hem; for more details about one method using seam binding, check out our previous post on how to finish a hem with seam binding. Hem facing is a great option if you want a hem that's very neatly finished on the inside, or want to add a bit of decoration or contrast to the wrong side of a hem. Use sewing tape of a similar color to the fabric for a more subtle finish, or use a contrasting color to add a bit of visual interest. Hem facings are also a great way to extend the fabric's length a bit, allowing you to sew a deep hem even if you don't have much fabric to spare. They're also a great option for items like skirts and dresses, as the added material can help weigh the hem down and provide a bit more body and movement.
6. Bound Hem
Hem binding is very similar to hem facing, except in this case, the sewing tape fully encloses the hem and is visible on both sides of the fabric edge. Like a faced hem, a bound hem can add a bit of weight and contrast or decoration to the bottom of a skirt or the edges of necklines, armholes, cuffs, and other garment edges. Bound hems are usually sewn with bias tape, a style of sewing tape particularly suited for curved garment areas.
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The 6 types of hems and their uses are essential knowledge for students studying fashion, textiles, or design-related courses. Understanding techniques like double-fold, blind, or rolled hems can elevate your work. If you’re struggling with assignments on garment construction or need assistance detailing when to use these hems, This Assignment Help Services AU provide expert guidance. From research to practical projects, they’re here to support your academic journey!
Who knew hems had this much personality? Now I can't stop imagining them having a secret club where the blind hem rolls its eyes at the double-fold hem for being too 'perfect.' Great guide—I’ll be hemming my way to success in no time!
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